The reading here should be 11.00 or better, with 13.49 being about normal. Switch the meter's resistance range to the 20K-ohm setting and attach the negative (black) meter lead to the center terminal of the coil. Next, you'll want to measure the resistance of the secondary coil, and this is the real business-end of the spark-producer. The normal primary reading for 12V (1956 and later) Corvettes on the primary side is 1.6, although a range of 1.5 to 1.7 is acceptable. Set the multimeter to the 200-ohm setting and attach the meter's leads corresponding to the terminal markings, red being positive and black being negative. The side terminals of the coil are marked positive (+) and negative (–) and these are where you can measure the resistance of the primary windings.
You'll need a digital multimeter to check the resistance levels of your coil. If you see no spark, the coil is a good thing to suspect next. Have someone crank the engine and observe the center electrode of the plug - if there's sufficient voltage reaching the plug, you should see a bright blue spark jump across the gap of the electrode every time that cylinder fires. You simply pull a spark plug from the engine (or use a spare plug if you have one in your parts box, snap one of the plug wires onto it and make sure the shank of the plug is grounded against the engine block (do not hold onto the spark plug with your bare hands unless you want to get a really nasty jolt - spark plug boot pulling pliers or other insulated-handle pliers are a good thing to use for this purpose). The information I'm providing here, however, applies to all GM vehicles of the period and broadly applies to virtually any 12-volt vehicle with a discrete ignition coil.Ĭhecking for spark is pretty easy to do.
See spark in the dark from coil pack on 99 silverado drivers#
The coils on early Corvettes are black cylindrical devices starting in 1975 the coil per se as a discrete cylindrical device was abandoned when GM made the switch to HEI breakerless ignition systems. well since you have already eliminated some possible causes now try the ignition module its the plate underneath the coil pack it is not a coil because then it would be misfiring on both cylinders to the coil and 1 goes with 4if this does not solve your problem only one thing left a bad computer causing this problem if you use a scanner you will see it actually is detecting the misfire through the injectors and that means the injector drivers in the computer are worn out. So that's why when my 1963 Corvette kept cranking but wouldn't start, after making sure there was fuel entering the engine, the next thing to check was that there was spark to ignite the fuel. Simply put, the bottom line is without spark the engine doesn't run. Hence, without this high voltage, there is no spark and, consequently, internal combustion cannot take place within the engine. The high voltage output of the coil is directed to the appropriate spark plug by the distributor. The coil contains a primary winding, a slot iron core, and a secondary winding. Includes Ignition Coils and Spark plug wires, poor fuel economy, 0L 5. An ignition coil is a type of pulse transformer that multiplies the low voltage received from the battery or alternator to many thousands of volts when the breaker points open and close. and Ignition Coil Pack Compatible with GMC Chevy 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000. The ignition coil is truly an amazing little device. per FSM.TROUBLESHOOTING Ignition Coil Troubleshooting: (No) Fire in the Hole The biggest challenge I had is the extension pulls out of the plug socket when installing the new plugs - need a looong pair of needlenose pliers (8" - 10") to get it out. A long (8") socket extension and a spark plug socket gets to every plug. You have to disconnect a few spark plug wires from the coil pack to get to the back 2 bolts but either mark the wires or match the numbers on the wire to the number on the coil pack when reassembling. Disconnect the electrical connectors on either side and move it out of the way. The 'power pack' is actually the coil pack located on the rear camshaft cover. If you take your time, have the required tools and triple check every step four times you should be done in under 2 hours. Changing plugs in the STS is SO much easier than doing a 4.5. Yanked them under 10,000 miles later and inserted AC Delco 41-950s.
First time I was a MORON and used Bosch Platinum +2's because they worked well in my Deville. There is ZERO rocket surgery to changing plugs in a 99 STS (OK, maybe just a little).
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